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More Chocolate…?

Posted on February 16, 2011 | Leave a comment

 I know by now you might be burnt out on chocolate, since we are just a couple of days past Valentine’s Day. It  can be  like listening to ”Chestnuts Roasting On an Open Fire” a week or two after Christmas. However my friends, this is chocolate we are talking about here!  Let me introduce you to a very versatile sauce…

Ganache

No, not Gesundheit ;)

Ganache is simply a mixture of cream and chocolate. Yeah I know, chocolate wasn’t good enough so someone had to go toss some cream in there, right? Sigh. With this simple technique we are going to learn today, you can achieve 3 different dessert very easily. I think I have spoken enough, let’s get to it.

Always, always, always use top-notch ingredients if you want to enjoy what you have madespent time making. I prefer to use Callebaut chocolate (Belgium has a reputation with chocolate for a reason). Valrhona is said to be some of the best chocolate in the world, I unfortunately have not had the pleasure to work with it… yet!

Now, traditionally you would need to chop chocolate up pretty fine, bring cream to a simmer, pour it over the chopped chocolate and whisk until smooth. Sounds easy, but I have chopped a lot of chocolate in my day. The thing you want to do is work pretty quickly since the chocolate is going to want to melt in your hands, making for a “Finger lickin’” good time ( but seriously, don’t lick your fingers, that would be gross). I have devised an easier plan, get a big knife or cleaver and a mallet and pop the chocolate into big chunks. This is going to make your life a lot easier and clean up a lot quicker. Before you start whacking away, you’re going to want to make a double boiler. Fill a large pot with about 2 inches of water. Fit a large glass or metal mixing bowl over the top of the pot (You want to completely cover the pot). Bring the water to a simmer. Add chunked chocolate to the pan. Stir the chocolate occasionally to help the melting process. The ratio for making ganache is much like making rice, 2 to 1, 2 parts chocolate to 1 part milk or cream.

The first thing we are going to think about making is one of my favorites : Pot de Creme. This super rich dessert is a great do ahead for dinners guests or A surprise for your sweetheart.

Traditionally when making Pot de Creme you  would have to cook ramekins filled with the chocolate mixture in a water bath, in the oven. Well today, again,  tradition had something come up and wont be attending the party.  Bring your bring your milk or cream to a boil.  Meanwhile, pour your melted chocolate into a blender or food processor (make sure to use a spatula to get all the chocolate out) with whole egg 1 egg, free range please (minus the shell of course). When cream has come to a boil, pour it into the blender and carefully blend until smooth.

The heat of the milk cooks the egg, pretty cool huh?

Tap the blender pitcher on the counter a few times to pop some air bubbles. Pour chocolate mixture into ramekins or small coffee cups and chill until firmed up, 4-6 hours or over night; voila!

That was easy right? Let’s try another.

 Chocolate Fondue.

Pretty much the same thing, just no blender or egg. Melt your chocolate over your double boiler. Bring your cream or milk to and simmer and whisk into the melted chocolate. You now have your fondue. You can keep this chocolate warm, over the pan like this for you, or transfer to a sterno-style display for something more fancy and you’ll be done. I would suggest some nice brioche and cut seasonal fruit for this. If your still hungry, come further down the rabbit hole and read on…

At this stage you have the perfect base for chocolate truffles. You can add a flavoring or extract to the chocolate to add some character or leave it be. Pour the chocolate mixture into a wide plastic container and let chill for 4-6 hours or overnight. When Set, use either a melon-baller or a teaspoon to scoop out chocolate. If needed, roll the truffle between your hands to help round out. Spill some chopped nuts, cocoa powder or shredded coconut onto a plate. Roll the truffles in your coating of choice and place on a tray in a single layer. Keep refrigerated until ready to eat. Let me know if you guys come up with some fun flavor combinations that you are willing to share.  Have fun with testing these recipes out and lick your fingers if you must :)

Other decadent desserts you may like:

Chocolate Sorbet

Baked Hot Chocolate

Chocolate Mousse

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A Taste For The Exotic

Posted on February 2, 2011 | Leave a comment

Cooking and eating the same types of food over and over tends to get a little boring. Chefs have a tendency for liking things that are a little out of the ordinary. See, we cook so much that things just get old. This explains why I often get a little talking to from my girlfriend about odd things that can end up on her dinner plate…oops.

While attending culinary school I found Moroccan cuisine. What a magical blend of mesmerizing flavors! The colors, smells and unfamiliar spices; a total refreshing change from the american diet. Another cuisine that was introduced to me was Indian. Now, I’m not much a fan of overwhelmingly spicy dishes, which some Indian dishes can be. However, a nice curry with some dried fruit laced cous cous and I’m coming to dinner. The cuisine has so much to offer I could be here for a couple of pages. So, let us just focus on this special dessert I made recently for an event at my market.

The Shrikhand (Sh-reek-hond)

This is a very simple dessert. You will however need to strain the yogurt a day in advance for optimal results. By straining the yogurt you make it that much richer, giving it almost cream cheese texture.

Yogurt straining over night. Yogurt after being strained. Notice the delicious, thick texture.

With the addition of saffron and cardamom, the shrikhand takes on an incredible lightness. A sprinkle of toasted coconut and chopped freshly roasted pistachios is the perfect ending. When most people think of dessert, they tend to think of something rich and heavy, this  is not that.  A shrikhand is something a little out of the ordinary so slip on your shoes and take a walk on the wild side.

Shrikhand

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Small pinch good quality saffron
1 qt. plain yogurt, preferably Greek
¾ tsp. ground cardamom, preferably fresh ground in motor and pestle
2 tbs. water
¼ c. blanched, sliced almonds
1/3 c. caster or powdered sugar, or more to taste
¼ c. unsweetened shredded coconut
¼ c. toasted pistachios, roughly chopped

Instructions

In a small pan, toast the saffron over low heat, stirring, until brittle, about 2 minutes. Remove and pulverize in a mortar with a pestle or on a cutting board with the side of a large knife blade.

Put the yogurt in a large bowl. Put the saffron back into the pan and add the cardamom and water. Bring just to a simmer, stirring. Whisk the saffron mixture into the yogurt.

Put the yogurt mixture in a strainer lined with cheesecloth, a coffee filter, or a paper towel and set it over a bowl. Let drain in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Transfer the yogurt to a bowl. Add the almonds and 1/3 cup sugar, or more to taste. With an electric mixer or whisk, beat the yogurt until slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into bowls and refrigerate until well chilled, or put in the freezer until very cold but not frozen, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small frying pan, toast the coconut over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes. Serve the shrikhand topped with the coconut and pistachios.

 Notes

You may speed up the draining process by gently squeezing the yogurt while in the cheesecloth. If you can, try to leave the yogurt to drain overnight in the refrigerator. If on hand, try adding 1 teaspoon of rose water to the yogurt…delicious!

Why yes, that is a caviar spoon!

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A Fowl Little Creature

Posted on November 5, 2010 | Leave a comment
Mallard Duck

Back in the early 90s it seemed like every upscale restaurants couldn’t get enough of duck! Much like all hot food trends, fads come and go. I for one am bringing the Canard back!

Today we are going to talk about the does and don’ts of duck cookery. Yes, there is an art to cooking duck and you are going to learn it. Lets get started shall we?

Ok, some things to start off: ducks are like Olympic athletes, migrating from pond to pond all the time. All the exercise ducks get is the reason that their meat is that dark red color, from all the blood being circulated. Also, from being in such cold climates ducks have developed a thick layer of fat to keep them warm. Below this husky little blanket of pudge, the duck is very lean (I am sure some of you have used this line before ;) ). Also from being so active, the ducks thighs and legs are very lean, making them very tough and stringy for us fellow cooks. However, duck legs are a story for another time, so don’t throw them out! Keep them wrapped tight in your freezer till next time.

So, lets talk about the breasts (keep giggling to a minimum please). The first thing you must remember is RENDER,  RENDER, RENDER. The trick to a pefectly cooked duck breast is all in the rendering  of the fat  from the breast. Too many times I have been at a restaurant and fat is almost burnt, still raw and thick on the breast, shame. The trick to rendering  is to score the breast in a cross hatch pattern.  This allows the fat to cook out quickly without cooking the breast and keeps the fat from tightening and curling up. This is easy, just make sure you have a SHARP knife. Run the knife lightly over the skin in parallel lines about 1/4 ” apart. You want to just break the thin skin but not cut deep into the flesh. Rotate the breast and repeat process on the other end creating a cross hatch pattern. Season that breast generously with salt and pepper and maybe some Chinese 5 spice.

Next, lay the breast, skin side down, into a cold pan and turn heat on to medium-low. A cold pan you say? Why yes, you want to slowly cook the fat out and not overcook the bird. This is the first mistake a lot of people make because they are used to using a hot pan to get  a good sear and crust for a chicken breast, for instance.

Within the first 3-4 minutes, you will start to see the fat starting to melt from the bosom. Occasionally push down on the breast to help coax out that tasty blubber. Depending on the thickness of the fat, this could take around 8-10 minutes. Peek at the skin around 6 -8 minutes, if it’s starting to look a little tan, crank the heat up and brown the skin till it’s golden and crisp. Now, carefully turn over the breast and continue to cook until the other side is browned, about 2-3 minutes, but no longer. By this time you should have a small lake of duck fat in the pan. Carefully remove the breast onto warm plate and let it rest for about 5-10 minutes.

That’s a lot of oil you got there, you aren’t thinking of throwing it away, are you? That’s delicious stuff right there, sautéed potatoes, omelets and roast veggies; all would be so happy to take a swim with the duck. Also, Duck fat is quite healthy…

Duck fat contains 35.7% saturates, 50.5% monounsaturates (high in linoleic acid) and 13.7% polyunsaturated fats (which contains Omega-6 and Omega-3 essential oils). Compare this to olive oil, which is 75% monounsaturated fat (mostly oleic acid) 13% saturated fat and 10% Omega-6 linoleic acid and 2% Omega-3 linoleic acid. Just so you know!

So please strain it, freeze it, moisture your hands or throw it back in a shot glass, but just don’t throw it out!

After you have let it rest, slice the breast. You want to see the color of a medium rare steak, nice, pink and juicy. If for some reason you fell asleep reading this or the power went out and the duck is brown or grayish… There is a solution! Simply take the duck over to the trash and drop it in. Nothing is worse than overcooked duck breast. You might as well eat a shoe you found on the street corner. If you dress it with the duck fat you hopefully kept, it should be more tolerable.

So there you have it, now you know how to cook a duck a breast like a professional. Now, to pair duck with things…Duck likes things that are sweet or aromatic to help balance their gamey flavor. Cherries, Currants and ginger, honey and soy, quince and orange. You can even make a prosciutto from duck, again that’s a story for another time.

Vive le canard!

P.S. I will be at Guido’s Fresh Marketplace this weekend ( November 5th and 6th )doing a duck tasting and showing how to cook the ol’ chap. Stop in and see me!

 

Duck Prosciutto


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Getting Back To Our Roots

Posted on October 27, 2010 | Leave a comment

Jerusalem Artichokes, a.k.a. Sunchokes.

Nobby Jerusalem Artichokes at the Market

Without knowing what a Jerusalem artichoke is, one  can easily pass it up for a knobby piece of ginger. “How in the world could I confuse ginger for an artichoke”? You are right, Jerusalem artichokes are not green, thistley or leafy.

 So, what’s the deal with these nobbies?

In fact, Jerusalem artichokes or Sunchokes are not related to the artichoke family at all. They are however related to the Sunflower family, which is where all this fuss about the name came from. Story has it that Native Americans used to harvest these sweet tubers long before colonists ever settled. A French Explorer sent some of these little roots back over the ocean to cultivate in the Mediterranean Climate. A Italian Chef got a hold of these guys, decided they had a flavor similar to artichokes and starting calling them “girasole articicco”( Translation= “Sunflower Artichoke). Though see here in America, we like to do things our way. Having a hard time with the pronunciation, some wise guy probably said “What”? Gerasole? I don’t know, I think he means Jerusalem”  And so it was re-named. Jerusalem artichokes are good news for Diabetics too. During the winter months, the artichokes store Inulin as starch for energy. Inulin breaks down into fructose in stead of glucose in your body during digestion, making Jerusalem artichokes a good replacement for potatoes.

Flower of the Jerusalem Artichoke

So there you have it, lets talk what we can make with these little nobbies. What you are looking for are firm, smooth skinned artichokes. Now, some people will tell you to feel them… Big waste of time, scrub them with a potato or tooth brush (an old one of course); plus a lot of flavor is in the skins. Look for them at the market NOW through the winter.
Jerusalem artichokes are some of my favorite things about Autumn; sweet, earthy and nutty. These guys make wonderful, velvety soups, roasted, baked, braised, sauteed and even RAW!

Brussels Spouts and Jerusalem Artichoke Salad

Serves: 4
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons best extra virgin olive oil
1 generous pinch sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 ounces Castelvetrano olives, with pits please
6 ounces Brussels sprouts
4 ounces Jerusalem artichokes
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
4 anchovies, chopped (optional)

Place the lemon juice in a medium bowl. Slowly whisk in the oil. Add the  salt, pepper and whisk to combine.
Using the flat side of a chef’s knife, push on each olive until the pit comes free from the olive flesh and the pit can be removed. Cut the pitted olives into slivers and add to the bowl with the lemon juice mixture. Cut the base off of one Brussels sprout. Carefully pull off the outer leaves, continuing to trim the base to release the leaves. Stop when you get to the yellow inner leaves that are tightly packed together, reserve this part of the sprout for another use (pan roasted with some balsamic?). Repeat with remaining Brussels sprouts and add the leaves to the bowl with dressing.
thinly slice the Jerusalem artichokes with a knife or mandoline slicer. Add them to the bowl. Using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave the Parmesan cheese into thin shards until you have about 1/4 cup, loosely packed. Add cheese to the salad. Toss to combine and serve. Add anchovies if you want to walk on the wild side.

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A Blast From The Past.

Posted on September 4, 2010 | Leave a comment

What is an “Heirloom” tomato? Furthermore, what’s the difference between and Heirloom and a regular tomato?

The Green Zebra Heirloom Tomato

Think of an old trinket that has been handed down from your great grandparents, from family to family. Maybe kept in a drawer somewhere or on a mantle. No matter how much the world has changed, that special gift has not changed.
Well, an Heirloom seed is much like that. Most of the produce you buy at your store at some point in it’s life has been cross-bred with something. Hybrids are created by blending the “best” parts of a vegetable’s characteristics. Often cross-bred to grow faster, longer and to bear more uniform sized fruit, making packing them in 80 counts easier and more consistent.
Heirlooms? Nope.
That’s what makes Heirlooms SO special. They have never been genetically altered. Therefor, the flavor you taste when you are eating an heirloom is what it is supposed to taste like. The are around 100 different types of heirloom tomatoes. The most common is Brandywine; thin skinned, meaty texture and excellent flavor. Some other favorites are Green Zebra, Garden Peach, Mr. Stripey and Cherokee Purple.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Be warned, once picked you will want to get them from the market to your belly in a hurry. Much like locally grown melons, once off the the vine the heirloom tomatoes wont keep but more then 3-4 days. This is another reason you aren’t likely to see heirlooms in big grocery stores, they don’t keep or ship well. Most of the tomatoes you buy in the bigger stores are picked when they are dead green and rock hard; not allowing much, if any, flavor to develop. That’s enough to make you not want to eat tomatoes for 10 months out of the year! Hard to tell this is a passionate subject for me? However, it is tomato season now, so take advantage of it.
Also Be on the lookout of Heirloom apples and potatoes, each having their own story to tell; but that is a blog for another time.
 
Heirloom Tomato, Burratta and Balsamic Salad
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
2 pounds Heirloom tomatoes (pick out a good variety of colors and shapes), sliced and quartered
2 balls Burratta (see note) or Fresh Mozzarella Cheese, halved
Good quality aged balsamic vinegar (this means if you have any of that $50 a bottle liquid gold, now is the time to use it)
Good quality extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Arrange tomatoes on a plate next to the halved ball of cheese. Season everything with salt and fresh cracked pepper, drizzle with olive oil and a little vinegar. Now, eat it. SO simple, but a perfect example of using great quality items and getting a stellar finish.
Notes: Burratta is made by folding together fresh mozzarella and cream and then folding it once more in more mozzarella. The end result is, well simply put… AMAZING. Creamy, rich and fresh. Look for it where ever the fresh
mozzarella is kept.

Heirloom and Burratta Salad (mmmm look at that cheese)

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Taming The Beast

Posted on June 23, 2010 | Leave a comment

Mmmmmmmm, mint.

Fresh, fragrant, bright and…..INVASIVE!

I am sure we have all made the mistake at some point in our lives of planting mint in the soil of a herb garden. It plays nice with its neighbors the first year, keeping to itself in its own corner. Next year, Mr. Mint is the mayor of herb town and cramping everyone’s space. I recently had to evict a rather large-sized gathering of mint from the corner of my walkway. But don’t worry, I made up by inviting  them over for dessert ;)

Mint, the garden bully

If you don’t have an ice cream maker, I strongly recommend grabbing one. You can make really great ice creams, sorbet and gelato with ease. It’s pretty affordable at around $50 for a machine and you can provide your friends, family and especially kids with really fun, delicious treats. Another great factor is that you control what is in it… that means no preservatives, added fillers or artificial junk.

There are many things you can do to tame your overgrown mint crop. Of course…  Mint Juleps and Mojitos. A lot of people would stop right there and call it a day. Go ahead, pour yourself a drink and let us continue. Something like and fresh? How about tabbouleh? Adding a big handful of mint to a potato salad gives a bright refreshing flavor. Try this carrot and mint salad, I warn you, its hard to stop yourself from eating the entire bowl!  Just remember, mint is very bright and fresh, balance that with stronger, heavier flavors; this is why the classic pairing of lamb and mint works so well. knowing all that, this is why mint ice cream works so well. The mint cuts through the richness of the cream and chocolate, creating a beautiful sensation of flavors in your mouth… Kind of poetic, eh? All that being said, this is not your average, out of the tub, supermarket ice cream, but something much more.

Fresh Mint and Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

Ingredients:

3 cups of fresh mint leaves (not stems), rinsed, drained, packed

1 cup milk

2 cups heavy cream (divided, 1 cup and 1 cup)

2/3 cup sugar

A pinch of salt

6 egg yolks

6 ounces semisweet  chocolate or dark chocolate (such as Calbaut), chopped fine, keep in the freezer until used

Directions:

Put the mint leaves in a heavy saucepan with the 1 cup of milk and 1 cup of the cream. Heat until just steaming (do not let boil), remove from heat, cover, and let stand for 30 minutes. Reheat the mixture until steaming, remove from heat and let stand for 15 more minutes.While the mint is infusing, prepare the remaining cream over an ice bath. Pour the remaining 1 cup of cream into a medium size metal bowl, set in ice water (with lots of ice) over a larger bowl. Set a mesh strainer on top of the bowls; Set aside.

Strain the milk cream mixture into a separate bowl, pressing against the mint leaves with a rubber spatula in the sieve to get the most liquid out of them. Return the milk cream mixture to the saucepan. Add sugar and salt to the mixture. Heat until just steaming again, stirring until sugar has dissolved; Remove from heat.

Whisk the egg yolks in a medium-sized bowl. Slowly pour the heated milk cream mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly so that the egg yolks are tempered by the warm mixture, but not cooked by it. Scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Return the saucepan to the stove, stirring the mixture constantly over medium heat with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon so that you can run your finger across the coating and have the coating not run. This can take around 10 minutes.

Pour the custard through the strainer (from step 2) and stir into the cold cream to stop the cooking. Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator (at least a couple of hours) or stir the mixture in the bowl placed over the ice bath until thoroughly chilled (20 minutes or so). Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When the ice cream is ready to be removed, add your chopped chocolate and let it mix into the ice cream thoroughly. Put in an airtight container and place in the freezer for at least an hour, preferably several hours. If it has been frozen for more than a day, you may need to let it sit at room temperature for a few minutes to soften it before serving.

Fresh Mint and Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

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The Great Scape

Posted on June 9, 2010 | 3 Comments

Garlic is pretty cool.  

Why?   

4 reasons:  

1. Green Garlic (Young Garlic)  

2. Garlic Scapes  

3. Garlic bulbs  

4. Cause it’s friggin’ great!  

Christmas came early today. Laura, from Farm Girl Farm (one of the farmers we deal with a lot), just dropped off a  

Garlic with a scape.

 case of Garlic Scapes. Scapes, much like ramps, fiddlehead ferns and morels, are a fleeting specialty of spring. If you have ever poked around a farmers market in the spring, you may have noticed these spiralled green whips. Right now, the scapes are at their best: young, tender and sweet. In the coming weeks the garlic will become  fibrous and woody, still edible, but requiring more work to prepare. 

How do you grow garlic?  

You plant a clove of garlic before the first hard frost of the fall. When the snow just starts to melt, the garlic stem will shoot right up. You can harvest some of these “stems” at this point and use them like you would a baby leek, this is what we can “green garlic”. The aroma of green garlic is very strong, though the flavor is quite mild, I recommend adding to the dishes at the very last second. After about 6 weeks, a flower will begin to grow out of the stem; this is the scape. A few weeks more, the garlic will have formed into bulbs, ready to hang and dry.  

What exactly is a “scape”?  

A scape is simply the flower of the garlic plant. After time, before it flowers, you will want to break the scape off to ensure all the energy goes to the growth of the garlic bulb.  

When the scape is young, you can do lots of stuff with it. Many people prefer to make pesto with it, super easy and super tasty. Blend a good handful of scapes  in a food processor with parmesan, salt, pepper and olive oil. Toss with some pasta and chow down. Another way that’s nice is to cut the scapes in about 1 1/2 inch pieces, blanch in salted, boiling water for about 2 mins and treat them like you would green beans; creamy, sweet and a touch garlicky. Roasted, that are divine  and are great in stir fry.  When they hit their teenage years (in a few weeks), they are even better grilled and topped on a juicy burger, especially a lamb burger…mmmm.  

Scapes and garlic field

Bigger, woodier scapes fear not; you too still have a purpose. Larger scapes can be used for making deliciously creamy soups, and are still great for grilling. Additionally, scapes provide an interesting accent in flower arrangements. Finally, garlic also gives you the unique ability to uncover your true friends, the gift is called garlic breathe.  

So how about that? 3 great culinary things you can get out of one vegetable. Just remember, anything that goes great with garlic (which is just about everything!), goes great with scapes. Get em’ while they last!  

Garlic Scape in Bloom.

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The Chicks Dig It

Posted on June 2, 2010 | Leave a comment

We all know of chickpeas (or garbanzo beans) dried and canned. However… how about fresh green chickpeas?? 

After hearing my market had gotten a case of these little green fellows yesterday, I had to investigate.  I love it when something comes back into season, or if you get really lucky like this, you get something new. I was anxious to get right to it. 

Fresh Chickpeas in the Pod

  The Chickpeas arrive in small little pods, containing 1-2 green edamame colored peas. Although easy to shell, I will admit, doing so was not all that fun. On the bright side, you can make it a real family affair and catch up with each other’s day. Plus, these really are well worth the effort.  

Shelled Fresh Chickpeas

 You are probably wondering “what is the difference from the Canned and dried versions? 

Fresh green chickpeas are harvested when they are immature. The canned and dried relatives are left to dry on the plant, in the pods. Fresh chickpeas are also higher in nutrients. These jolly green midgets are low in fat, high in protein and full of flavor;  buttery, slightly nutty and a tad sweet. The simplest way to prepare the peas are to blanch them in salted, boiling water for about 3-4 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Then, drain and toss with olive oil, salt, pepper and some lime juice or wine vinegar. Enjoy them as is, or toss them into some other veggie dishes. 

 You can treat the chickpeas much as you would fresh peas. You can even enjoy them the way you would edamame: Pan roast the chickpeas (in their pod) until warmed through, drizzle with olive, lime juice and sprinkle with coarse or flaky sea salt; then put to use your fingers and teeth. The first preparation I worked out was a “fresh” (yes…pun intended) take on an old classic: Fresh Chickpea Hummus. Looked a lot like guacamole, but tasted like hummus, a real  tromp l’oeil. 

Fresh Chickpea Hummus

The Fresh chickpea season is a short one, and the options are only limited to what you can think of. Come to the Market, grab and handful and get busy!

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Perfect Pillows Of Delicious-ness

Posted on May 15, 2010 | Leave a comment

 

Gnocchi Batter

May 21-23 is Berkshire Grown‘s annual Farmed and Foraged event. In Celebration of wild edibles, locally grown produce, cheeses, meats and breads from the region; area restaurants will be creating prix fixe and ala carte menus. 

At my market we strive to get as much local items as we can. So taking part in the event really got me excited and thinking… 

Being a farmer is no small feat. It takes a certain breed to deal with all the curve balls nature can throw at you, especially in the Northeast. Short growing seasons, wacky weather conditions and long cold winters are just a few things that can plague the talented crafters of the soil. Not everyone is cut out to be a farmer however, but I thought it would be fun for everyday people to get a chance to craft something of their own. As far a flavor is concerned, you won’t find anything fresher than when you make it yourself, Case in point… 

Ricotta Cheese  

I am planning making gnocchi (an Italian dumpling) for this event. In the Berkshires, there certainly is no shortage of dairy products and eggs. Ricotta is one of the easiest cheeses to make, and one of the tastiest. Combined with a little flour, an egg, some Parmesan and a pinch of love;  this gnocchi will be on your tummy’s favorite list for a long time to come. 

Pillows

 

Ricotta Gnocchi and Fiddleheads in Lemon, Thyme and Butter 

Serves: 4 

Ingredients: 

For the Gnocchi:
1 lb fresh ricotta cheese
1/2 cup plus 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
½ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
 
1/2 lb fiddlehead ferns
 
For the Sauce
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tsp thyme leaves
2 tsp plus 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp lemon juice 
 
2 tablespoon butter, divided    
2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
 
Directions:
Bring a large pot of water to a light simmer. In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, 1/2 cup Parmesan, egg, flour and parsley. Stir to combine ricotta mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Turn out the mixture onto a lightly floured surface and roll into a 6-8 inch long ropes. Cut into 1 inch lengths and press lightly with the back of a fork. Cook the gnocchi in batches in a large pot of salted boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes or until cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon to an ice bath. Heavily salt and bring water to a boil. Pour in fiddlehead and boil for 5 minutes, remove ferns with a slotted spoon to a separate ice bath.
 
For the sauce:
Combine butter, thyme, 2 teaspoons lemon rind and lemon juice in a small pot; heat over low heat until butter is melted. Season sauce with salt and pepper, keep warm.
 
Drain gnocchi and fiddleheads and pat dry. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil to a large pan and heat over medium heat. When butter begins to sizzle, working in batches, brown and crisp gnocchi on both sides, about 2 minutes. Remove gnocchi to a paper towel lined plate. Next add the remaining butter and oil to the same pan. Add

Final Dish

fiddle head ferns and saute until warmed though, about 1-2 minutes. Pour gnocchi back in to the pan along with the sauce; heat until sauce is hot. Portion the gnocchi and fiddleheads into 4 bowls.

 Garnish with the remaining Parmesan and lemon zest, serve hot.

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One of the Best Things I Have Eaten…

Posted on April 22, 2010 | Leave a comment

The best pizza ever.

This past weekend I was pretty busy making Ramp pizzas for the market. After catching wind of the smells in the kitchen, I was informed by my girlfriend that we would be having that for tonight’s dinner. I was more than fine with that. But after making a large amount of the same kind of pizza, I needed to amp things up a bit.

Pizza is great because with just a few cheap ingredients you can get a pretty good pie.  You can however invest a little more and make something REALLY gourmet. Besides, it’s good to spoil yourself once and a while.

Point in case: Ramp, Asparagus, Fiddlehead Fern and Morel Pizza.

That’s about as much spring as one pizza can handle.

Ramp, Asparagus, Fiddlehead and Morel Pizza

Serves about 12

1 small frozen pizza dough, thawed (or homemade if you have the time) 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 handful ramps, washed and roots removed

1/2 lb asparagus, cut into 1 1/2 pieces

3/4 lb fiddlehead ferns, washed and brown chaff removed

3 oz fresh morel mushrooms or 1 3 oz packaged dried

1 tablespoon butter

3 oz fresh mozzarella ball, coarsely chopped

1/3 cup fresh grated parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 510 degrees F.

Adjust oven rack to the bottom of the oven. You will want to add your pizza stone about 1/2 before sliding the pizza on to it.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add ramps and cook for 1 minute. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and rinse with cold water. Bring water to a boil again. Add asparagus and cook for 1-2 minutes, or until crisp tender; drain and rinse with cold water. Bring water back to boil and add fiddleheads, cook for 5 minutes, drain and rinse with cold water. If using dried morels: empty dried morels into a small sauce pan and add just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, remove from heat let steep for 5 minutes; drain, dry and roughly chop.  Heat butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and a pinch of salt, sauté until soft; reserve. Dry all veggies as much as you possibly can.

Lightly flour work area and work pizza dough out, getting it as thin as possible. Use a rolling pin to help this.  Brush lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle mozzarella, asparagus, ramps, fiddleheads, morels and thyme, season with salt and pepper. Slide pizza on to the pizza stone using either a peel or inverted cookie sheet. Bake for 8 minutes, or until edges are puffy and browned. When done, remove from oven and slide on to a wire cooling rack; let cool slightly.

Then…

Get after it!

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